The Rolex GMT-Master II history traces the evolution of the world’s most famous travel watch — from its 1954 debut with Pan Am pilots to today’s modern icons like the Pepsi, Batman, Sprite, and Root Beer.
It all began with jet travel. In the 1950s, commercial flights were crossing oceans for the first time, and pilots needed a way to track multiple time zones. Pan American Airways (Pan Am) approached Rolex with a challenge: build a watch that could display both local and home time simultaneously.
In 1954, Rolex delivered the GMT-Master Ref. 6542, the first true aviation watch — and unknowingly created one of the most enduring timepieces in horological history.
1950s – The Birth of the GMT-Master
Model: Ref. 6542 (1954–1959)
Specs: 38 mm | Bakelite bezel | Cal. 1036 | No crown guards
The 6542 featured a red-and-blue “Pepsi” bakelite bezel and a 24-hour hand that allowed pilots to track two time zones. Its design was simple but brilliant.
It also became famous for its luminous bezel, which contained radium — later discontinued due to radioactivity concerns. Surviving examples are now highly collectible, commanding six figures at auction.
Fun Fact: The 6542 was famously worn by Honor Blackman as “Pussy Galore” in Goldfinger — one of the first Rolex models featured in a James Bond film.
1960s–1970s – The Golden Age of the GMT
Model: Ref. 1675 (1959–1980)
Specs: 40 mm | Aluminum bezel | Cal. 1565 / 1575 | Crown guards introduced
The 1675 defined the GMT’s look for two decades. It introduced crown guards, an aluminum bezel insert, and more durable construction.
It came in several variations:
- Pepsi Bezel (Red/Blue): The classic airline color scheme.
- All-Black Bezel: For those who preferred subtlety.
- Two-Tone Gold & Brown “Root Beer”: The first luxury GMT, later nicknamed the “Clint Eastwood” after the actor wore it onscreen.
This was the era when the GMT went from pilot’s tool to symbol of international style.
1980s – The Birth of the Rolex GMT-Master II History
Model: Ref. 16760 “Fat Lady” (1983–1988)
Specs: 40 mm | Red/Black bezel | Cal. 3085 | First independent hour hand
The 1980s brought the GMT-Master II, and with it, the feature that changed everything — an independently adjustable local hour hand.
This meant travelers could change local time without stopping the movement or affecting the 24-hour hand — a huge advantage for frequent flyers.
The 16760 also earned the nickname “Fat Lady” (or “Sophia Loren”) because of its thicker case, needed to house the new Caliber 3085. It was also the first GMT to feature a red-and-black “Coke” bezel, which became instantly iconic.
1990s–2000s – The Modern Era Begins
Models: Ref. 16710, 116710LN
Specs: 40 mm | Sapphire crystal | Cal. 3185 / 3186 | Aluminum → Ceramic bezel transition
The 16710 became the bridge between vintage and modern. It was slimmer than the Fat Lady and came with three bezel options — Pepsi, Coke, and Black — making it one of the most versatile GMTs ever made.
In 2007, Rolex introduced the 116710LN, the first GMT-Master II with a Cerachrom bezel. The black ceramic insert was virtually scratch-proof and fade-resistant, marking a major material upgrade.
The watch also gained Rolex’s “Super Case,” featuring thicker lugs and crown guards, giving it more wrist presence.
2010s – The Return of the Icons in the Rolex GMT-Master II History
The 2010s saw Rolex embracing nostalgia — and collectors loved it.
2013: The Batman (Ref. 116710BLNR)
- First two-color ceramic bezel (blue and black)
- A fresh, modern GMT that quickly became a cult favorite
2018: The Pepsi Returns (Ref. 126710BLRO)
- Reintroduction of the red/blue bezel in Cerachrom
- Now on the Jubilee bracelet — a nod to the vintage 1675
2019: The Batman Jubilee (Ref. 126710BLNR)
- Upgraded Caliber 3285 with 70-hour power reserve
- Added Jubilee bracelet option
2022: The Sprite (Ref. 126720VTNR)
- The first-ever left-handed Rolex
- Green-and-black bezel, crown on the left side
- One of the most innovative modern Rolexes
These reintroductions proved Rolex could honor its heritage while continuing to innovate.
2020s – The GMT Family Expands
The GMT lineup now includes stainless steel, two-tone, and full gold variations — each appealing to different tastes:
| Model | Reference | Material | Bezel | Personality |
| Pepsi | 126710BLRO | Oystersteel | Red/Blue | Classic collector’s choice |
| Batman | 126710BLNR | Oystersteel | Blue/Black | Modern everyday favorite |
| Sprite | 126720VTNR | Oystersteel | Green/Black | Unconventional & bold |
| Root Beer | 126711CHNR / 126715CHNR | Everose Gold / Two-Tone | Brown/Black | Warm & luxurious |
| Black Bezel | 116710LN | Oystersteel | All Black | Discontinued classic |
With Rolex now offering both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets across the GMT family, collectors can choose between sport and sophistication — without compromise.
Why the GMT-Master II Endures
The Rolex GMT-Master II history has staying power and comes from its ability to evolve while staying recognizable. Every generation refines the same idea: a watch that helps you navigate time zones — and life itself.
Here’s why it still stands out:
- Practicality: Dual-time functionality remains unmatched.
- Innovation: From bakelite to Cerachrom, Rolex keeps improving.
- Heritage: Every modern model traces its DNA back to the 1954 original.
- Value: Consistent appreciation across every era.
Market Insights — Then and Now
| Decade | Notable Reference | Original Retail | 2025 Market Value |
| 1950s | 6542 | ~$240 | $120,000+ |
| 1970s | 1675 | ~$500 | $13,000–$25,000 |
| 1980s | 16760 “Fat Lady” | ~$1,200 | $15,000–$19,000 |
| 1990s | 16710 Coke | ~$2,500 | $12,000–$18,000 |
| 2010s | 116710BLNR Batman | ~$8,950 | $16,000–$19,000 |
| 2020s | 126720VTNR Sprite | ~$11,250 | $18,000–$22,000 |
The data says it all — Rolex GMTs are not just watches; they’re assets.
At Jonathan’s Fine Jewelers in Houston, we track these prices daily so our clients know exactly when to buy, sell, or trade.
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Houston’s Destination for Rolex Collectors
Whether you’re a first-time buyer or a lifelong collector, Jonathan’s Fine Jewelers in Houston is your local source for everything Rolex GMT.
We carry both modern and vintage models — from rare 1675s and Fat Ladies to brand-new Pepsis and Sprites. Every watch is authenticated, serviced, and backed by our reputation built over three decades.
No waitlists. No inflated markups. Just real Rolex expertise.
Final Thoughts
From the cockpit to the conference room, the Rolex GMT-Master II has defined what it means to be a world traveler’s watch for over 70 years.
The Rolex GMT-Master II history — from bakelite to Cerachrom, from 6542 to 126720VTNR — is a story of innovation, resilience, and timeless design.
If you’re ready to own a piece of that history, browse our current inventory at Jonathan’s Fine Jewelers eBay Store or trade yours in.
And for an in-depth look at every GMT variant — from the Pepsi to the Sprite — visit our Rolex GMT-Master II Collection Page.
