The Audemars Piguet 25594 is one of our favorite dress watches of all time. Audemars Piguet released this model in 1985, and it still excludes a timeless, vintage elegance today.
It’s one of the few references to feature the Moonphase complication. And the brand only produced it for a few years.
Let’s take a closer look at the history of this watch and its features.
History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day Date Moonphase
The Royal Oak Masterpiece
Audemars Piguet released the first Royal Oak model in 1972.
Just before the 1971 Basel fair, Audemars Piguet’s managing director at the time, Georges Golay, called upon Gerald Genta– one of the most famous watch designers at the time.
It was 4pm when the request came. Golaay explained that the Italian market was expecting an “unprecedented steel watch” for which he needed a design by the following morning.
Genta pulled off the design in time, and claimed it the finest work of his watch design career.
The model disrupted the watch industry, and sales were initially slow because of the innovative design and premium cost. Eventually sales exploded, and the Royal Oak is one of the world’s most iconic models.
Birth of the Audemars Piguet 25594
Almost a decade passed before a Royal Oak Day Date became available. This model (25572BA) was nicknamed “The Owl” due to the symmetrical dial. Very fitting indeed!
At 36 mm, this model was made for a wider audience that favored more the mid-sized watch.
AP introduced the Moonphase complication two years later. This was one of the first complications to be housed within a mid-size Royal Oak case. It’s sometimes called “The Moonphase Owl” as it’s a bit ‘wiser’ than it’s predecessor.
Audemars Piguet 25594 Features
Dial
The unmistakable dial retains the more understated “Petite Tapisserie” pattern, forming the square and lozenge motif, along with easier Royal Oak versions. (Newer Royal Oaks models have since adopted the manufacture’s grander “Tapisserie Evolutive” dial pattern.
Two gold counters display the day and date in an intuitive way, at 3 and 9 o’clock. The moonphase stands out at 6 o’clock, with the dark blue colour of the midnight sky matching the blued steel hands found in the day and date subdials.
Dial colors were produced either in a gold or a cream motif. The gold color produced a luxury monochrome look, while the cream color added a luxurious contrast to the yellow gold metal. Either model would
Most modes feature lume-filled hands, but this particular example of the ref. 25594 features unusual stick hands, which is believed to only have appeared on the first generation of pieces.
Case
The yellow gold, 36mm case feels a bit larger on the wrist. Due to broad lugs extending beyond the bezel, the watch is closer to 40 mm in terms of surface area.
This case is slim at 9 mm thick and easily slides under a dress cuff.
Thanks to the slim profile of the case and bracelet, this model hugs the wrist. It’s both supremely comfortable, yet distinctively elegant and characterful.
It’s the perfect watch to pair with formal attire.
Bezel
The bezel features notable Audemars Piguet design cues. The tapering polished, octagonal bevel has a beautiful satin finished top with white gold polished bolts for contrast.
Bracelet
The bracelet features a beautifully brushed satin finish. It has a gorgeous polished bevel along the flanks of the individual links and down the center.
White gold (as confirmed by the hallmarks on the back) is used for the internal swing arm of the clasp. This metal is stronger and harder than yellow gold, and used here for its strength.
The bracelet clasp also features the signature “AP.”
Movement
The Audemars Piguet 25594 is powered by the self-winding calibre 2224/2825. This automatic calibre features 32 working jewels and beats at a frequency of 28,800 VpH, while delivering 40 hours of power reserve.
The intimate movement features an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment made out of 21-carat gold.
Quick Reference
| Model: | Day Date 25594BA |
| Movement: | mechanical automatic AP Caliber 2224/2825 |
| Functions: | day, date, moonphase, hours, minutes |
| Features: | gold dial, stick hands |
| Case: | 36 mm yellow gold |
| Crystal: | sapphire front |
| Bracelet: | yellow gold AP-stamped bracelet and clasp |
Final Thoughts on the Audemars Piguet 25594 (Day Date Moonphase)
We love the vintage take on this elevated and unlikely sports watch. The Petite Tapisserie design and thin gold case create the perfect pairing for a formal, dress watch.
If you don’t already have one in your collection, we highly recommend this addition!
Audemars Piguet Watches at Jonathan’s
At Jonathan’s, we’ve purchased and sold many Piguet watches. Are you looking to trade in or sell your watch? Then stop by the shop and let us make you an offer! If interested in purchasing your own, we can help you there too!
If you are interested in purchasing your own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, give us a call or fill out our contact form.
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